You don’t spend your whole evening staring at your plate. Take a look around. Do you like what you see? Are you within arm’s reach of the next table or tucked into a corner? Is the room difficult to navigate? Is the bar close by? Can you see your fellow diners or are you hidden?
Each restaurant has its own aesthetic—Del Posto’s airy, two-floor arrangement is nothing like Momofuku Ko’s counter, but there they are at numbers one and two respectively.Each has its own charm. Sometimes it doesn’t so much matter what a restaurant tries to be, so long as the execution is superb. Decide what you’re looking for and know that these fifteen restaurants do whatever that is best.